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Malta Beyond the Beaches: Is It Worth Visiting Off Season?

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Growing up in Britain in the 60s and 70s, Malta was always talked about — a  sun-soaked Mediterranean island where the Queen once lived, where English is spoken, and where bougainvillea spill over limestone walls. It all seemed so exotic and yet despite my love for travel, history and the sea, Malta never called to me. It felt a little too beachy. A resort type holiday that wasn’t quite us.

Until we found a bargain flight in November and jumped at the chance.  We had no idea if Malta was worth visiting out of season but we booked an apartment, hired a car and set off to find out.

What we learned surprised us. Malta oozes history, has a few incredible cities, very friendly locals, and yes — even beaches that are worth seeing. Here’s why we think Malta is absolutely worth visiting, especially outside the crowded summer season.

Is Malta Worth Visiting If You’re Not a Beach Person?

The short answer? Yes — Malta is absolutely worth visiting, even if beaches aren’t your thing. What really surprised us was just how much the islands offer beyond the sun and sand.

Malta may be small, but it packs in a surprising variety of experiences year-round. Yes, it’s famous for its summer beach resorts and family holidays — but there’s so much more here for curious travellers like us who really just want to explore.

Whether you’re:

I always thought that Malta was famous for its postcard-worthy beaches but it’s actually more famous as a small island with a really big heritage. 

There are many reasons to love Malta during the off-season.  Is Malta perfect? Of course not. But is it still worth visiting, even if you’re not a beach person? Yes and we’ll tell you why!

What’s Malta Like Outside of Summer?

For over a decade, we’ve escaped winter in southwest France by heading to Spain or Portugal. But after our time in Malta, we’re definitely adding it to our list of winter getaways.

Peak tourist season on Malta runs from June to September, with July and August most busy. Shoulder seasons are extending too – from April right through to October. However, visit outside those months you’ll find a very different Malta. The crowds thin out, the pace slows, and the islands feel more local and less touristy.

We explored cities like Valletta and Mdina and Victoria on Gozo at our own pace,  without large crowds.  The island isn’t deserted or closed but for us it felt just about right.  And with very few cruises running from November through to April there’s no big influx of day visitors either. 

We had days of blue skies and sunshine, though we also had a few grey, blustery days so pack a rain coat! There’s no guarantee of sunshine but the mild weather made it easy to be outside.

Month	Average High (°C)	Average Low (°C)	Average Rainfall (mm)	Average Sunshine Hours	Average Wind Speed (MPH)	Average Sea Temp (°C)
Jan	15	9	90	5	9.8	16
Feb	15	9	81	6	10.6	15
Mar	17	10	41	7	10.2	15
Apr	19	12	26	8	10.7	16
May	23	15	10	10	9.4	19
Jun	28	19	6	11	8.4	22
Jul	31	21	5	12	7.7	25
Aug	32	22	9	11	7.1	26
Sep	28	20	68	9	7.9	25
Oct	24	17	76	7	8.1	23
Nov	19	13	90	6	9.2	21
Dec	16	11	90	5	10.5	18

What Are Malta’s Highlights Beyond the Beaches?

I feel a bit like a character from Monty Python: Apart from the history, the beaches, the Queen, the culture, the movies, and the Knights… why else should I visit Malta?

And as we discovered, it turns out there’s plenty of reasons!

Malta is Compact — Perfect for Slow Travel

Malta is one of Europe’s smallest countries at just 27 km long and 14.5 km wide. That makes it smaller than the Isle of Wight in the UK, and almost twice the size of Washington D.C.

It’s compact, which made it perfect for exploring.  You can drive from one end of the island to the other in a day, which makes getting around a lot easier.

Year-Round (Ish) Mediterranean Climate

If you’re coming from Northern Europe, Malta’s winter climate feels like a bit of a treat. But I have to keep things in perspective, it’s not T-shirt and shorts weather.

We did though have plenty of days hiking, walking, and eating outside on sunny terraces. And we needed sunscreen more than once.

If you’re not chasing a beach holiday but want to explore, walk, and get outdoors, Malta’s off-season climate is pretty perfect. But remember to pack a rain coat too!

Surprisingly Affordable for Europe

Malta might be a European country, but thankfully it’s not Paris or London prices. While staying in Valletta’s old town can be pricier, overall, we found Malta surprisingly affordable and a great choice if you’re planning a longer off-season break.

Outside of Valletta, you can easily find good accommodation for under 80€ a night. We had an amazing Sunday lunch at a hugely popular restaurant for less than 30€ each — and that included wine. Public transport is cheap and easy to use, and grabbing a coffee and a croissant in Valletta cost us around 5€.

Locals are Friendly & English Is Widely Spoken

We love to travel and contrary to the stereotypical ideas we might have, most people around the world are open and friendly and very welcoming.  And the Maltese are no exception. Everyone we met was welcoming, helpful and also very proud to share their island.

And another huge bonus for us was that English is widely spoken. From menus to road signs, meaning everywhere felt easy to navigate.  This alone removes a lot stress about getting around, ordering food, or simply chatting with locals.

Easy to Get Around (Even Without a Car)

We hired a car and have no regrets. It gave us the freedom to explore all over Malta and Gozo, stopping wherever caught our eye.

That said, if you’re visiting for a shorter trip or you simply don’t want to drive, Malta’s public transport is surprisingly good. We often used the bus and left the car at our apartment to avoid the city traffic around Valletta.

Getting between Valletta and Sliema is quick and easy by water taxi and the same goes for hopping over to the Three Cities. Plus, you get a pretty great view along the way!

If you’re planning to visit Gozo, the inter-island ferry is simple, affordable, and runs regularly. We crossed a few times and every time, there was a hop-on-hop-off bus waiting at the port for foot passengers, ideal if you want to go further afield without a car.

And if you’d rather sit back and let someone else handle the planning, there are some great tours available — and surprisingly affordable too!

Great Base for Day Trips

Because of its size, Malta is an easy base for exploring either around the island or beyond.

Wherever you stay, it’s simple to reach Valletta, Mdina, or Sliema — even from the smaller coastal towns and villages. There are regular buses to the ferry port too if you fancy island-hopping over to Gozo.

And incredibly, you can even catch a ferry across to Sicily if you fancy lunch in Italy— just don’t forget your passport!

Natural Beauty and Outdoor Activities

You know we love a good walk. While Malta doesn’t have famous long-distance trails like the Camino de Santiago, there are still plenty of hikes and coastal walks to enjoy around the islands.

I used sites like AllTrails to find routes — one favourite was the trail along the Dingli Cliffs. But honestly, we often just followed our noses.

Gerry decided that he wanted to hike across a country and Malta’s size makes that possible! We started at Għadira (Mellieħa Bay) and followed a quiet road to Popeye Village. What began as a bit of a folly turned into a gorgeous walk — and we weren’t the only ones out enjoying it.

From Popeye Village, we kept going along the cliffs, rewarded with stunning views of the coastline. If you love hiking or biking, there’s definitely enough here to keep you busy — especially outside the hot summer months.

Clean Waters, Stunning Lagoons, and Coastal Views

It’s not just Malta’s beaches that impress visitors; the sea water here is perfect for anyone who loves being out on (or under) the sea.

We’ve snorkelled in Thailand, the Galapagos, and Indonesia and if we’d known how warm the water was in winter, we might have packed our gear for Malta too.

Malta is also home to some of the best diving spots in Europe, with shipwrecks and colourful reefs that can be explored year-round. Popular dive sites include Cirkewwa Reef and the Blue Hole (possibly Gozo’s most famous dive spot) along with Gozo’s Inland Sea, which is also worth hiking above for the incredible coastal views.

Yes, the Beaches Still Deserve a Mention

Don’t get us wrong — we love the ocean and we do love a good beach. We’re just not the type to sunbathe. But you really can’t visit Malta without exploring the coastline and a million visitors flock here every summer for those azure waters.

The islands are dotted with pristine beaches and rocky coves and even by strict EU standards, Malta’s water quality excels. In 2023, the European Environment Agency rated 82 beaches in Malta as ‘excellent’, and the country boasts 12 Blue Flag beaches.  And remember just how small this island is!

Of course, along with the crystal-clear waters comes snorkelling, diving, kayaking, and windsurfing which is ideal for those who feel home in the water!

One word of caution – many of Malta’s beaches are rocky. But you’ll often find a lido nearby, offering safe swimming platforms straight into the sea. But I would investigate this before booking your beach holiday!

Rich Culture and Living History Around Every Corner

Oh my — where do we even start?

Malta feels like a living museum, with layers of history spanning thousands of years. You’ll find traces of Neolithic civilizations, the grand cities of the Knights of St. John, and influences from the Phoenicians, Romans, Moors, Normans, Sicilians, French, and British — every empire seemed to leave its mark here.

The islands boast three UNESCO World Heritage listings, with several more under consideration. And if you love ancient history as much as we do, you’ll find it here.

One of the oldest free-standing structures on earth sits quietly in rural Gozo — older than Stonehenge and the Pyramids. Malta’s megalithic temples are a staggering reminder of a civilization that existed more than 5,000 years ago — and yet, when we visited there were  just a handful of other folks around.

In short? If you’re a history lover, Malta will more than keep you busy.

Mdina : Malta’s Silent City

Mdina is a stunning walled city in the heart of Malta which quietly whispers of the island’s glorious past. It’s as grand as the capital, Valletta, but feels more like a village. At times, its narrow streets and honey-coloured stone buildings reminded us of home in southwest France — complete with brightly painted shutters.

Known as The Silent City, Mdina earned its nickname in the Middle Ages when many residents moved away, leaving the streets quiet like a ghost town.

It’s thought that the area around Mdina has been settled for over 6,000 years. The Phoenicians fortified it, the Romans made it home to their governor, and St Paul is said to have lived just outside, in nearby Rabat. Then came the Normans, Arabs, the Knights of St John, the French, and the British — all leaving their mark.

With so much history, it’s no wonder films and TV series like Game of Thrones chose Mdina as a backdrop.

We took a walking tour to get our bearings but we also loved just wandering. Inside the walls, outside the walls, and even along the ramparts. Plus, Mdina has some seriously good cafés where you can stop and soak it all in.

Whatever time of year you visit, make sure Mdina is on your list!

Valletta : The Capital Full of Surprises

We loved Valletta. It surprised us and we’re already planning to go back. If we could change anything about our time on the island, it’s that we wish we’d based ourselves there.

Wander through Valletta’s narrow, cobbled streets and it feels like stepping back in time. Explore the baroque masterpiece of St. John’s Co-Cathedral, the Grand Master’s Palace, and gaze out over the Grand Harbour — one of the world’s most spectacular natural ports. It’s no wonder the entire old town is a UNESCO World Heritage site.

But Valletta is a real capital and has a mix of old and new. You’ll find street vendors and Michelin-starred restaurants, cozy cafés, shops, museums, and galleries — all packed into this compact, walkable city.  And that’s even before you go exploring Three Cities across the bay!

Valletta is perfect for a weekend getaway or as a base for a longer stay. I’ll wax lyrical even more in our post Why Valletta is Worth Visiting — but whatever you do, don’t miss this glorious little city when you visit Malta.

Gozo : Malta’s Quieter Cousin

Gozo is just a short ferry ride from Malta and if you’re craving peace and a slower pace, it’s the perfect escape. Tiny but packed with charm, Gozo is dotted with sleepy villages, historic landmarks, and some breathtaking natural beauty.

We visited in December and at times felt like we had the place to ourselves — stopping at quiet churches, secluded coves, and coastal cliffs. But even in winter, buses and tours still ran, though having a car made exploring easy.

Victoria’s Citadel was a highlight — surprisingly busy, but nothing like it must be in summer.  But we also loved

Gozo was a surprise and although we visited a few times, we didn’t allow enough time. It’s the kind of place I’d love to return to for a few quiet weeks of doing very little.

Top Tip :  Time your ferry ride back for sunset — Time it right and you’ll capture the perfect orange glow and the views over the water are magic.

Surprisingly Great Food Scene

With so many cultural influences, Malta’s food scene is a delicious blend of Mediterranean flavours — Italian, North African, Middle Eastern and today all mixed with modern global twists.

But food and cuisine has been influenced by geography; there are few opportunities on the island for large grazing mammals like cows, and the local cuisine reflects this.  That said, you need to visit a few different restaurants as there is some wonderful food to try!

We took a food tour in Valletta (highly recommend!) — partly because I need to eat gluten-free, but also because Gerry’s a foodie and exploring local cuisine is one of his favourite ways to connect with a place.

And you learn so much on these tours; our guide told us about the local’s favourite place for Sunday lunch in Mgarr, which was amazing!

The Maltese do love their pastries but they are also very gluten-aware. I always found great options on menus, and there’s also a growing number of vegan and gluten-free cafés popping up too.

Wine and Chocolate. Why Not?

We can’t finish our reasons to visit Malta without mentioning another Maltese surprise — the local wine and chocolate.

Malta’s been producing wine for thousands of years (and their olive oil is excellent too), but there’s also a thriving chocolate scene.

And you can actually combine both on a Wine and Chocolate Pairing Tour which was one of the most unexpectedly fabulous things we did.

Honestly, worth visiting Malta just for this experience… almost!

What Might Disappoint You (It’s Not All Perfect)

I’ve created quite an impressive list of compelling reasons to visit Malta — but nowhere is perfect.  It’s only fair to tell you about the things that we didn’t love so much too.

None of them would stop us going back, but it’s worth sharing so you know what to expect.

Traffic and Driving Can Be a Challenge

We’re glad we hired a car — but oh my, the traffic. Malta is a small island but over half a million people live here, and many of them drive. The government is trying to encourage public transport, but there’s no escaping the congestion — especially around Valletta and Sliema.

We learned to stick to small roads and travel at off-peak times, but this is definitely something to factor in.

Malta Is Small And Densely Populated

This surprised us most. We pictured quaint villages, that bougainvillea, and sea views — but the reality is Malta is one of the most densely populated countries in Europe.

There is a lot of urban development around Valletta and Sliema, which means parts of the island feel more built-up than we expected. There is still plenty of open countryside but this is worth knowing and you can set your expectations accordingly.

European Prices So Don’t Expect a Bargain

Malta is a modern European nation with a good standard of living and prices that reflect this.

We found it affordable compared to big tourist hotspots, but it’s not a budget destination. And if you plan on staying in Valletta’s old town, then expect to pay a little more.

Not Wall-to-Wall Sunshine Off-Season

We loved the weather most of the time and had plenty of sunny days — but Malta is an island, and winter brings windy, rainy days too.

It didn’t ruin anything for us, but if you’re expecting constant sunshine and calm seas, winter might not be the best choice for you.  Definitely check the seasonal weather before booking.

Public Transport is Good, But Not Always Reliable

We used buses a lot — they’re affordable, and their app is great for live updates. But traffic means timetables slip, and at busy times (like school runs), buses fill up fast.

We learned the hard way and we learned to journey around these peak hours and the times to avoid!

Accessibility Could Be an Issue for Some

Malta isn’t the easiest for accessibility. Valletta is a city with lots of steps.  Many of the coastal walks involve a bit of a climb and the older buildings don’t have lifts.

As much as the nation works to make Malta accessible, there are still obstacles to consider.

So… Is Malta Worth Visiting Out Of Season?

We put off visiting Malta for years because we thought it was all about the beaches. Turns out — there aren’t that many sandy beaches.

What there is, though, is a whole lot of history, tons of culture, great food, and enough festivals to shake a stick at!

We loved it. We hiked, we explored, we met incredible people, and visited some truly stunning places. We watched sunrises and sunsets, got sunburned and totally soaked.  And we had the very best of times.

Was it perfect? Of course not — but where is? Is it worth visiting? Absolutely. There’s still so much we want to do:

And I guess that tells you everything you need to know: we want to return. We spent a few weeks exploring in November and December and it wasn’t enough.

This tiny island that you can walk across in a day somehow stole a little bit of our hearts. We will go back one day – though we’ll still never wish to drive into Valletta’s traffic again!

Are You Planning A Visit To Malta?

If you’re curious about the rest of the island, we’ve got a few more posts that might help you plan your trip, or inspire your next one :

We hope they help you plan your trip — or tempt you to book one soon!