Visiting The Amazing Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park

Created by Colleen | Updated : 8 September 2024 |

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This post was crafted with care and occasional typos by Colleen (and not AI)

We didn’t so much choose Kgalagadi; it chose us as part of our journey from Victoria Falls to Cape Town. On paper, it might not seem the ideal place for a safari: it’s vast, animals can roam across great distances, there’s precious little water and you won’t find all of the ‘Big Five’ here.

And yet we loved Kgalagadi.

The Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park is an untamed wilderness that stretches across the borders of South Africa and Botswana. With its stark beauty, rich wildlife and fascinating history, the park offers something a little different for those looking to experience Africa in the raw.

close up of a stunning cheetah, who walked by our truck in The Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park

Where Is Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park?

Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park covers a vast area of 38,000 square kilometres, with 75% of the park in Botswana and the remainder in South Africa. It’s located in the Kalahari Desert and is one of the largest conservation areas in the world.

The park’s main entry points are through the Twee Rivieren Gate in South Africa, the Two Rivers and Mabuasehube Gates in Botswana, and the Mata-Mata Gate if you’re arriving from Namibia.

Kgalagadi might not have the fame of its neighbour, Kruger National Park, and it’s certainly off the beaten track, but that’s exactly where the magic happens. You can download a map from the South African National Parks Website.

kgalagadi park map

Kgalagadi And The Kalahari Desert

Kgalagadi is in the Kalahari Desert, a semi-arid savanna covering about 900,000 square kilometres across Botswana, Namibia, and South Africa.  It’s a unique landscape, defined by striking red dunes, sparse vegetation and the absence of permanent surface water.

Yet, despite these harsh conditions, Kgalagadi supports a surprising diversity of wildlife and was home to the San Bushmen and Khoe-speaking people. An indigenous community, who not only survived but thrived in this environment. For thousands of years they developed a deep understanding of the land and learning to live alongside the wildlife.

The park’s flora and fauna have adapted to their challenging environment; here, you’ll find everything from the majestic black-maned Kalahari lions to the playful families of meerkats that never failed to excite us!

I loved Kgalagadi’s landscapes, I loved its wildlife and its birds. I took a thousand photos, trying to capture the ever-changing colours and light; an impossible challenge!

antelope eating the sunbleached grass in Kgalagadi Park

Water Sources And Rivers In Kgalagadi

The Kalahari Desert was not always as dry as it is today. Fossil evidence suggests that this region was once much wetter and cooler, perhaps even as recently as 11,000 years ago.

Today, the riverbeds of the Nossob and Auob lie dry, flowing perhaps once every 100 years. The Auob River last flowed in 1974, and the Nossob in 1964. Occasionally, they spring to life after one of the dramatic thunderstorms that the area is known for.

However, underground water still flows, sustaining grasses and trees and feeding several artificial watering holes, where wildlife frequently gathers.

poster from the Twee Rivieren Interpretation Centre about rain

Why Is It Called Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park?

The name Kgalagadi comes from the Bakgalagadi people, who have lived in this region for hundreds of years. Indeed Kalahari itself is derived from the Kgalagadi word for land that has dried up or place of great thirst.

The park is called a transfrontier park because it is a cross-border conservation area managed jointly by Botswana and South Africa. Established in 2000, it aims to protect a vast ecosystem that spans international borders, allowing wildlife to roam freely across the region. In October 2007, the Mata-Mata access point on the Namibian border was added, further enhancing cross-border tourism and cooperation.

At Twee Rivieren you can stand with one foot in both countries and walk through one door from South African and out another into Botswana.

twee rivieren entry gate. one door is Botswana and the other South Africa

Differences Between South African And Botswanan Areas Of The Park

A safari in Kgalagadi offers a different experience from the more famous Kruger or Chobe. We noticed immediately that the park was less crowded and of course the vastness of the landscape, with its unique colours and wide open spaces. (did I mention I loved the colours?)

We stayed at the Twee Rivieren Campsite on the South African side and explored the park from there. Each side of the park offers its own distinct experiences:

  • The South African Side is more developed, with better infrastructure, a range of accommodation and organised guided safaris.
  • Unlike the game drives we took in Chobe and Etosha, we could travel through the park in our overland bus, enjoying fabulous 360-degree views from a higher vantage point.
  • The South African side has several rest camps, including Twee Rivieren, Nossob, and Mata-Mata; all fenced and equipped with shops and fuel stations.  There is even a luxury lodge between Mata-Mata and Twee Rivieren.
  • The Botswanan Side offers a more rugged experience, characterised by limited facilities and vast, open spaces.  But it is more limited and you must book ahead.
  • The Botswanan side is more isolated, with campsites that can only be reached by 4×4 vehicles and require traveling in convoys of two or more vehicles; perfect for those seeking a more rustic wilderness camping experience.
Botswana Transfrontier Website
South Africa Transfrontier Website

How To Choose Which Area To Visit?

Deciding which part to explore depends on your preferences for comfort versus adventure, or, as in our case, what site is chosen by your tour operator. We stayed at Twee Rivieren, and only experienced the South African side firsthand. If you’re seeking the ease of facilities and a bit more structure the South African side is perfect. But, if your heart beats faster at the thought of the wild adventure and you don’t mind trading comfort then the Botswanan side is for you.

  • For Comfort and Convenience: If you prefer good facilities and more organised activities, the South African side with its campsites at Twee Rivieren, Nossob, and Mata-Mata is ideal.
  • For a More Remote Experience: If you’re looking for a more rugged and remote adventure, head to the Botswanan side, where self-drive routes and basic campsites offer a closer encounter with the wild.
family of meerkat at Kgalagadi Park

Best Time To Visit Kgalagadi

The ideal time to visit is during the cooler months from May to September. Daytime temperatures typically range between 20-30°C, but keep in mind it is still winter in Africa so nighttime temperatures can drop. The lowest temperature ever recorded in the park was a chilly -10.9°C!

We visited in June and the weather was perfect for exploring. Clear skies and bright sunshine, although the cooler air meant we still needed our jumpers.

From October to April, expect heat with temperatures often soaring above 40°C and a high of over 45°C.  This must be a factor to consider when planning your visit.  You may also experience dramatic summer storms meaning your vehicle must be able to cope with a sudden extreme downpour.

Desert tree in a barren landscape with our Africa Overland Truck in the background
We Travelled From Victoria Falls To Cape Town with African Overland Tours
Click Here If You Too Want An Adventure Of A Lifetime
Fox in low winter sun light and the orange glow of the early morning in Kgalagadi

What Wildlife Can I Expect To See In Kgalagadi?

With over 470 documented species, Kgalagadi is home to a unique mix of desert-adapted wildlife.   Whilst the landscape may look empty, it wasn’t long before we spotted many different animals.

Unlike Chobe where wildlife congregates around the river or the big herds that we spotted Etosha’s plains, the wildlife in Kgalagadi requires a bit more patience.  But if you look closely, they are there. You won’t find all of the ‘Big Five’ here though; it’s too dry for some species but nonetheless Kgalagadi is teeming with life.   

  • Black-Maned Kalahari Lion : The Kgalagadi’s most iconic animal is the black-maned lion, a unique subspecies of the African lion. The males are known for their distinctive dark manes, which are believed to offer protection from the heat.  We spotted a few of these majestic beasts and they do indeed look very different from their Chobe cousins.
  • Kalahari Cheetah : The cheetah has adapted to the desert’s harsh conditions and they are listed as a vulnerable species by the WWF.  We spotted cheetah on both our game drives but on our last day we had the great fortune to spot three of these glorious animals hunt together for an unsuspecting Springbok. They are incredibly fast and graceful!
  • Gemsbok (Oryx) : The gemsbok is not unique to Kgalagadi but the park is one of the best places to see this antelope. They are adapted to the desert, with long, straight horns and distinctive black-and-white markings on their faces.
  • Meerkat : We were so excited to spot meerkats! Whilst they can be found in other parts of Africa, Kgalagadi is a particularly good place to observe them up close. And it was the first time we’d spotted any on our journey from Victoria Falls.
  • Springbok : These graceful antelope leap high into the air and are a joy to watch. We’ve seen them across Africa in Chobe, Etosha and Kaglagadi.  They are abundant throughout the park and are a common sight.
  • Wildebeest : Like the springbok, are regularly seen in Kgalagadi. They are often found in small herds although we spotted a few lone older males too. Their presence is crucial for the park’s predators, such as lions and cheetahs.
  • Spotted Hyena : The elusive hyena can be found across the African but sadly we never saw one. Spotted hyenas are opportunistic feeders and can often be seen scavenging near predator kills or hunting in packs.
  • Leopard : Leopards eluded us, despite high hopes in both Etosha and Kgalagadi. However, Kgalagadi is known as a good place to spot these solitary and secretive cats, especially around rocky outcrops. They are mainly nocturnal, so sightings are often during early morning or late afternoon game drives.
there are large number of black mane lions in the park, often sat on the roadside watching for prey!

Birdlife Unique To Kgalagadi

While the big cats and larger mammals often steal the spotlight, Kgalagadi is also a paradise for birdwatchers. The park is home to an array of fascinating bird species that are just as captivating if you take the time to watch them.

We were able to get great views of some of the birds but keep your binoculars handy; especially near the watering holes!

  • Pygmy Falcon : The smallest bird of prey in Africa, the Pygmy Falcon, is frequently sighted. This tiny little raptor often takes advantage of the large communal nests built by sociable weavers for roosting and breeding.
  • Sociable Weaver : True to their name, sociable weavers are known for their incredibly large communal nests that can house hundreds of birds. The nests kind of drape over trees and are a common sight. Initially I thought they were giant bees nests so it was a relief to discover it was birds!
  • Crimson-Breasted Shrike : With its striking red and black plumage, the crimson-breasted shrike is often spotted in the savanna areas. It’s a favourite among birdwatchers, not only for its bright colours but also its distinctive call.
  • Kori Bustard : One of the largest flying birds in the world and Africa’s heaviest, the Kori Bustard is often seen strutting across the open savanna. They feed on insects, small mammals, and seeds, moving slowly and deliberately through the beautiful golden grasses.
  • Bateleur Eagle : The Bateleur Eagle is easily recognised with its striking black and white plumage and bright red face and legs. It is a common sight in Kgalagadi, often seen gliding above the plains or perched in trees looking for prey.
  • Lappet-faced Vulture : The Lappet-faced Vulture, the largest vulture in Kgalagadi and an important part of the park’s ecosystem. It is often seen circling high in the sky, looking for carrion.
  • Secretary Bird : Another fabulous name!  The Secretary Bird, with its long legs and distinctive feathered crest, is a unique bird of prey. It is often seen stalking across the savanna in search of snakes and small mammals.
  • Ostrich : Two of our fellow travellers from Australia absolutely wanted to see Ostrich during our overland trip.   Whilst we spotted a few distance pairs en route to Cape Town, it was only in Kgalagadi that we saw them in numbers throughout the park.
beautiful close-up of bird or prey sat on the nest of the sociable weaver

How Do I Get To The Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park?

Accessing the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park requires some planning, especially given its remote location.

  • The South African side is most commonly accessed via Upington. Kgalagadi is about 250km or a 3 hour drive from Upington to Twee Rivieren.
  • Upington Airport is the closest airport to Kgalagadi and offers car hire facilities
  • For those entering from Botswana, the park can be reached via the Mabuasehube Gate or Two Rivers Gate.
  • If you are coming from Namibia, you can enter through the Mata-Mata Gate.

When planning your journey, consider the distances between camps and ensure that you allow time to arrive before the park gates close, as these close strictly at dusk.   On our last evening as we stayed too long watching the Cheetah we had a very fast sprint back to the Twee Rivieren gate and made it with just a few minutes to spare! 

The National Park Website states : “The travelling time from the entrance gate at Twee Rivieren to Nossob Rest Camp is 4.5 hours and to Mata-Mata is 3.5 hours. When driving from one rest camp to the other, travellers should depart with travelling times in mind to ensure arrival before sunset, as no travelling is allowed in the park after dark. Gate hours in the park are strictly adhered to.”

Desert tree in a barren landscape with our Africa Overland Truck in the background
We Travelled From Victoria Falls To Cape Town with African Overland Tours
Click Here If You Too Want An Adventure Of A Lifetime

Do I Need a 4×4 to Explore the Park?

While a 4×4 vehicle is not mandatory for exploring the South African side of Kgalagadi, I would highly recommend it based on the terrain we encountered. Many of the best game-viewing roads are sandy or gravel tracks, requiring a vehicle with good ground clearance.

According to the South African National Parks website: “Roads in the park have gravel surfaces. The roads are not sedan-friendly, and sedan vehicles may find it difficult to cope with the conditions.” Also, bear in mind that if you get caught in one of the famous storms you’ll need a 4 x 4 to cope with the waterlogged roads!

If you plan to explore the Botswanan side or venture deeper into the park, a 4×4 vehicle is mandatory. Personally, we could not imagine navigating this park with anything other than a vehicle designed for such terrain.  The 4×4 offers better comfort and more safety on these rough roads.

Want The Thrill of a 4 X 4 Tour But In A Group?

If you love the idea of the 4 x 4 adventure but would prefer to travel as part of a small group then we found the perfect tour for you!

Book Your Kgalagadi 8 Day Overland Tour
welcome sign to Kgalagadi Park with opening times

Park Hours, Entrance Fees And Permits

As with any international border, there are border controls in place at Kgalagadi. Immigration and customs arrangements allow travellers to enter the park in one country and exit in another, but you must go through customs to do so. Remember to have your passport handy.

Entrance Fees: The entrance fees vary depending on your nationality and the side of the park you are entering:

  • South African Citizens: Approximately ZAR 90 per person per day
  • International Visitors (South African side): ZAR 370 per person per day
  • International Visitors (Botswanan side): Approximately Pula 120 per person per day

Important Notes for the Botswanan Side:

  • A 4×4 vehicle is mandatory, and you must travel in a convoy of at least two vehicles.
  • The entire park in Botswana is unfenced, allowing wildlife to roam freely, which adds to the wilderness experience but requires additional caution.
  • The Government of Botswana has allocated only five fixed lodge sites. To maintain the wilderness experience, they strictly control the number of vehicles, nights, and people allowed. Therefore, booking in advance is essential.

If you’re planning a self-drive tour of Kgalagadi, be sure to consult both the South African and Botswanan park websites for the most detailed and up-to-date information.

Top Tip: The main gates into the park open at sunrise and close at sunset. It’s essential to check specific times, as they vary seasonally, and remember that gate closing times are strictly enforced. Always plan to arrive well before sunset to avoid any issues.

cheetah walks by our bus and 2 cars just before the hunt

Services In The Transfrontier Park

The park offers essential services, including shops, fuel stations, and medical facilities but only at the main camps. For the most part, services are very limited and in Botswana you will need to be self-sufficient and plan accordingly.

Is It Safe To Visit Kgalagadi?

Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park is generally safe to visit, but it’s important to exercise caution, particularly regarding wildlife. Always follow park rules, stay in your vehicle during self-drives, and remain aware of your surroundings. The park is remote, so be prepared:

  • Always keep enough water and some food in your vehicle.
  • Make sure you have suitable clothing for the extreme changes in weather and temperature.

During our visit, we felt safe at all times. Whilst the park isn’t busy, we still encountered a few other vehicles and were never alone.

How Are Human-Wildlife Interactions Managed?

The park has strict guidelines to help maintain safe interactions between humans and wildlife. While these rules are important for tourists, the challenges of wildlife interaction often lie more with the local communities who live in and around the park.

As a visitor, you are required to stay inside your vehicle and follow the instructions and rules of the Park. In Botswana though many camps are unfenced, so you are quite literally in the wild. I’ve read accounts of lions and other wildlife that occasionally wander through these campsites, so always be aware of the potential for wildlife nearby.

We never felt unsafe, though it can be a bit unnerving to step out of the vehicle in the designated areas, knowing that we’d seen lions just a few minutes before!  However, designated picnic areas and toilets are provided and considered relatively safe places but you need to stay alert nonetheless. We found that having a healthy respect for the wildlife is never a bad idea!

Top Tip: Snakes and scorpions are also present in the camps. Be cautious about where you place your shoes, and always check to ensure no creatures have made themselves at home. Our crew filmed a cobra while setting up our tents; encounters with wildlife are very real!

gerry looking out across the Park. This rest area is unfenced and on the other hills we had seen lions!

Does Malaria Exists In Kgalagadi

Kgalagadi is a low-risk malaria area, but it’s always best to consult your healthcare provider before travelling.   The air was chilly when we visited in June so we wore long sleeves and trousers but still used insect repellent.  Also ensure window nets and doors remain closed.

Top Tip : In higher risk areas during our journey from Victoria Falls, the crew advised us to spray our tents with repellent an hour before bedtime in case mosquitos had found a way into the tent.

Should You Visit Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park?

I truly loved Kgalagadi. After almost a month on the road, we wondered if we might experience ‘safari fatigue,’ but that wasn’t the case at all.

Kgalagadi offers a unique experience; much quieter than any other park we’d visited before. I felt more connected to the landscape; I loved the colour palette of golds and greens to ochres, all lit by the glorious winter sun.

While you won’t find the great herds here like in other parks, Kgalagadi is teeming with life. The thrilling cheetah hunt we witnessed was every bit as exhilarating as watching the lionesses in Chobe. The landscape, with its vast open spaces and red dunes, is simply incredible.

We loved our time in Kgalagadi. For us, it captured the essence of Africa’s untamed wilderness. It was everything we hoped for and more—an experience that truly exceeded our expectations.If you’re looking for a safari that offers a chance to explore one of Africa’s more remote and beautiful parks, Kgalagadi should be at the top of your list.

20 Day Victoria Falls to Cape Town Adventure

Looking for the greatest African Overland Experience? We travelled from Victoria Falls to Cape Town on quite possibly one of the greatest tours we’ve ever taken.

If you think this kind of tour is too much for you then think again.

Book Your Africa Overland Adventure
stunning information boards in the Twee Rivieren Interpretation centre; this board telling the relationship between the bushman and the lion

Don’t Forget Travel Insurance

Whenever you travel, you should have a great travel and medical insurance policy.  None of us expect anything bad to happen, but in the event of an incident, you want to be sure that your insurance will be there for you.

I’ve ended up in hospital in Peru, Indonesia, Portugal, Japan and Ireland! Every time my insurance took care of everything. I would never leave home without full and comprehensive insurance.

TrueTraveller : We have this policy and we are very happy with the cover, especially considering our ages and pre-existing conditions.

Globelink : We have used and recommended Globelink for years and we’ve not heard of any issues. They are a great choice for European and UK Residents.

Safety Wing : Many of my travelling buddies from the USA have recommended this company to me, although we’ve not used them personally.

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Colleen in Salamanca on the Via de la Plata

Author : Colleen Sims

Hey I’m Colleen. I’m married to Gerry, we’ve three fabulous kids and been living in France for almost two decades. I fell in love with Spain in the 1980s and I’ve walked 1000s of miles along the Camino de Santiago. Now we’re exploring and walking the world and I can’t wait to share what we’ve learned!

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